Patek Philippe Nautilus, a complete guide to the 5711, 5712 and 5990

Few watches hold "grail" status among collectors around the world. The Patek Philippe Nautilus is one of them. In 2026, it celebrates its 50th anniversary and has never been more coveted or harder to obtain.

For buyers, this popularity complicates everything. The references look alike, secondary market prices are striking and the discontinuation of the 5711 has upended the usual benchmarks.

This guide explains the origins of the model, the differences between the 5711, 5712 and 5990 references, the women's versions and the factors that determine the price of a Nautilus today.

 

The history of the Patek Philippe Nautilus

In 1976, in the middle of the quartz crisis, the Geneva manufacture surprised the watchmaking world. It launched a large steel sports watch, priced higher than many gold models. Patek Philippe's official press release for the Nautilus 30th anniversary recalls the scepticism that surrounded this gamble at the time.

The watch was designed by Gérald Genta, who had created the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak four years earlier. The first reference, the 3700/1A, was quickly nicknamed "Jumbo" because of its size. Produced until 1990, it is now sought after by vintage watch collectors, who see it as the purest form of the model.

A ship's porthole as inspiration

As described on the official Nautilus collection page, the shape of the case is inspired by a ship's porthole. Its octagonal bezel with rounded corners, its two side "ears" and its dial with embossed horizontal ribs make it instantly recognizable.

This construction also serves a purpose: it provided remarkable water resistance for a production watch of that era.

 

The Nautilus 5711, the cult reference

Introduced in 2006 when the collection was renewed, the 5711/1A carries on the spirit of the 3700 with a redesigned case and an ultra-thin automatic movement. Over the years, its steel version with a blue dial has become one of the most coveted watches on the planet.

The 5711 dials

The gradient blue dial, darker toward the edge, remains the signature configuration of the 5711. It has, however, come in several variations over the years, including white dials, rose gold versions with a brown dial and special series. Each variation has its own market value, and a different dial can mean a significant price gap between two watches of the same reference.

The end of production and its effect on the market

In 2021, Patek Philippe announced the end of the steel 5711. The final series, including a version with an olive green dial, sold out immediately. The announcement intensified an already high level of scarcity and pushed secondary market prices to historic highs.

The collection continues, however, notably with the 5811/1G reference in white gold, introduced in 2022 as the new interpretation of the three-hand model.

 

The Nautilus 5712 and its complications

The 5712/1A, also launched in 2006, keeps the Nautilus silhouette while adding several indications. Its asymmetrical dial brings together a power reserve, a moon phase display, a date and small seconds.

It is powered by a micro-rotor calibre, which keeps the case slim despite the complications. For many collectors, the 5712 is an alternative to the 5711: a design that is just as recognizable, with a more technical touch and a price that often differs slightly on the secondary market.

 

The Nautilus 5990 Travel Time Chronograph

Introduced in 2014, the 5990/1A combines two complications that are useful for travellers. The flyback chronograph restarts timing with a single press. The Travel Time function displays a second time zone, adjustable with pushers on the left side of the case.

It is one of the most complex steel Nautilus models in the current collection. Beyond the 5990, the collection also includes other complications, such as the annual calendar, the perpetual calendar and the split-seconds chronograph, often reserved for gold versions. The sporty, functional character of the 5990 appeals to clients who travel frequently and want a watch that is both technical and prestigious.

 

Comparing the main Nautilus references

The table below summarizes the features of the three most sought-after references.

Reference	Launch	Functions	Buyer profile
5711/1A	2006	Hours, minutes, seconds, date	Purist looking for the icon
5712/1A	2006	Power reserve, moon phases, date, small seconds	Fan of understated complications
5990/1A	2014	Flyback chronograph, second time zone, date	Traveller, fan of technical watches

The Nautilus for women and smaller sizes

The Nautilus has long appealed to women as well. A first women's version, the 4700 reference, appeared as early as 1980 in a more compact size.

Today, women's models such as the 7118 offer a case of about 35 mm, bezels sometimes set with diamonds and dials in a variety of shades. These references keep all the Nautilus codes, but in a size better suited to slim wrists.

On the secondary market, these versions are often more accessible than the 5711 while offering the same signature. They are an attractive option for anyone who wants a Nautilus without targeting the most speculative references.

The price of a Nautilus on the secondary market

Getting a new Nautilus from an authorized retailer is the exception. For most Canadian buyers, the secondary market is the only realistic route, as explained in this guide to accessing rare Patek Philippe models.

New from an authorized retailer

Patek Philippe distributes its watches through a limited network of authorized retailers. The most in-demand steel models are allocated sparingly, usually to clients who have an established purchase history with the retailer. It is still possible to express interest, but no timeline is guaranteed. This explains the sometimes significant gap between the list price and the price seen on the secondary market.

What influences the value of a Nautilus

Several factors affect the price of a pre-owned Nautilus:

• The reference and dial: a 5711 with a blue or green dial does not have the same value as a more common model.
• The box and papers: a complete set, with the certificate of origin, reassures buyers and supports value.
• The condition of the case and bracelet: excessive polishing softens the edges and reduces appeal to collectors.
• The year and service history: a recent service at an authorized centre is a concrete selling point.

These prices can also fluctuate with global demand. This guide to investing in a luxury watch is a reminder that no watch guarantees a return, not even a Nautilus.

For a specific reference, working with a specialized intermediary makes the search much easier. This guide explains how a watch broker works and their role in authentication.

Patek Philippe Nautilus, a legend that stays on course

Fifty years after its creation, the Nautilus remains a benchmark for the elegant sports watch. The 5711 embodies design purity, the 5712 adds a technical dimension and the 5990 meets the needs of travellers.

Whatever the model, the key to a good purchase lies in a rigorous check of the piece and its documents. To compare the Nautilus with its eternal rival, this Audemars Piguet buying guide for Canada presents the Royal Oak and the brand's other collections.

Frequently asked questions about the Patek Philippe Nautilus

Why is the Patek Philippe Nautilus so expensive?

The Patek Philippe Nautilus is expensive because the manufacture produces a limited number of watches, while global demand far exceeds supply. Its Gérald Genta design, the quality of its finishing and the prestige of the brand add to its appeal. The discontinuation of the steel 5711 further increased its scarcity, driving up prices on the secondary market.

Can you still buy a Nautilus 5711?

Yes, but only on the secondary market, since production of the steel Nautilus 5711 ended in 2021. Available pieces come from collectors or specialized resellers. Given the amounts involved, it is essential to check the box, papers and service history, and to have the watch authenticated by a professional before any transaction.

Nautilus or Aquanaut, what are the differences?

The Nautilus and the Aquanaut share a similar case shape, but their styles differ. The Nautilus features an integrated metal bracelet and a dial with horizontal embossing, in a more classic aesthetic. Launched in 1997, the Aquanaut is recognizable by its checkerboard-pattern dial and composite rubber strap. It targets a younger, more casual clientele.